Californian Redwoods

Leaving Mendocino behind and moving onto Highway 101, I was keen to spend the next few days exploring the Californian Redwoods.  The Californian Redwood is both the longest living tree, up to a maximum of 1,800 years, and the tallest tree, growing to a height of approximately 120m. The trees once extended from south of San Francisco to south west Oregon, but are now predominantly found in protected reserves in northern California.  


The largest of these is the Humboldt Redwoods State Park and access is primarily through a 32 mile scenic drive referred to as the Avenue of the Giants.  The road winds its way through the reserve and dotted along the way are numerous trails and camping locations.  It's an awe inspiring experience to be walking through the groves of Redwoods and it was sunny and mainly still when I reached the Avenue in late afternoon.  I spent several hours driving, stopping and walking through the forest and enjoying the varying sights and sounds.


The next morning, after an evening in Arcata, I was keen to visit more Redwoods in the Redwood National Reserve further up the road nearer the border with Oregon.  It was however pouring with rain and when I reached the Information Centre I had to wait between showers to dash inside.  The guide pointed out a few scenic drives and felt that I could still go for a walk as beneath the canopy it would be predominantly dry.


Heading off for these location I hadn't gone far before spying a bedraggled if colourful looking hitcher in the gloom.  Despite previous advice to the contrary I slowed down and picked up Casey from Texas (or Casey Smiles as he refers to himself) who would accompany me for over the next 400 kms, or 6 hours to Eugene, Oregon (yes, there's town called Eugene), before I drove on to Bend.


After lamenting not being able to find the real America in Mendocino, I, by chance, had a hitcher who could provide as good an insight as any as we sped through forested highways north. Luckily Casey was good company and I learnt during our journey that Casey was supporting a 15 month boy and, as he couldn't find regular work in Oregon...and likes to keep moving, hitches to northern California and other parts of the country for manual labouring work for week at a time before returning to Bend. The financial crisis has closed a lot of the mills in Oregon, in turn closing off one of the main sources of employment.  

Hitcher Casey

The underlying poverty in Oregon means a lot of his employers pay him in food stamps that the Government had in turn provided to them.  As Casey likes to be paid in cash he hitches to various parts of the country seeking work. I noted to Casey that I'd being amazed by the number of trailer parks and camp sites in this part of the world, and Casey indicated that with the current financial situation it was becoming increasingly common for families who'd lost their house to live and reside out of an RV in a camp site or trailer park.  Over the course of the drive I also learnt useful tips like which hikers not to pick up (apparently those without packs are usually angry nut bags who aren't travelling anywhere and should be avoided), and that the Ford Mustang is the preferred car of Mexican drug dealers in these areas and often targeted by police...and therefore not a good rental.

I farewelled Casey at a petrol station in Eugene and had appreciated the company on a long drive.  My last leg of the day was across the Cascade Mountains to Bend and the final surprise was when the rain turned into snow and I found myself driving through a blizzard.  Pretty surreal experience and I was glad to finally roll into Bend.